No more ALPS joysticks on recent JDM-055 Playstation 4 controllers?

This JDM-055 motherboard came from a broken PS4 controller I bought on eBay.

A few weeks ago I bought a box of broken PS4 controller parts on eBay. There were a few motherboards and some miscellaneous housing bits in the box. It was a good deal. But what surprised me the most was this board inside that had black joysticks with orange potentiometers.

The right stick on the board was cracked, but that wasn’t the interesting part. What was more interesting is that there were no signs whatsoever that anybody had worked on the board before. The controller had been opened up and there was some dust and dirt on the board, but no signs that anyone had touched anything at all with a soldering iron.

No signs that these were soldered in by hand.

These orange joysticks are readily available all over Aliexpress, eBay, Amazon, etc… so it’s not uncommon to find them inside boards that have been worked on before. From the “F” logo on the sticks I believe they’re made by Polyshine/Favor Union, which is the same company that makes the flexible conductive film for the buttons. You can even see the “F” logo on the conductive film in the photo at the top of the page, albeit upside-down.

This board didn’t look like it had been worked on before by anyone. All the solder joints for the joysticks looked original. Nobody had removed the original ALPS sticks, installed these black and orange ones, and then subsequently broken the right stick. This board had simply never had ALPS sticks in the first place. These orange ones were factory original.

I was so curious about this that I actually asked the seller if he knew anything about it. He confirmed for me that he hadn’t replaced any of the sticks himself and had purchased the lot from a wholesale seller. He said the board was like this when he received it.

I was mystified. I was dying of curiosity, but had no answers. The seller had said he believed the wholesale vendor he bought it from was selling Walmart customer returns. I wondered if maybe, like Gamestop does with some products, Walmart had refurbished the controller and used aftermarket parts. Still, it didn’t look like it had been hand-soldered, so it seemed unlikely to me.

Just today I received another ZCT2U controller with a JDM-055 board in it that I bought on eBay. Interestingly, it too has orange and black Polyshine/Favor Union joysticks in it. It also has no signs at all of any rework.

And the serial number, for those who want to try to find one in the wild.

I think at this point I can be reasonably confident that I’ve got my answer. These controllers were not refurbished. Neither Walmart nor any other retailer had anything to do with it. Sony has simply stopped using ALPS joysticks in their controllers and switched to using Polyshine/Favor Union joysticks. Or at least, that’s the case for some of the newest ZCT2U controllers. Maybe it’s just the ones with 1-982-707-21 as the part number?

I’ve worked on plenty of JDM-055 boards that have the usual red, green, and white ALPS joysticks in them, so it’s not the case that all JDM-055 boards are like this. But it looks like maybe the most recent revision uses these new joysticks. They’re almost identical to the similar-looking ones you can find on Aliexpress, but the center button (i.e. L3 or R3) makes the same kind of clicking noise the ALPS ones make. This is in contrast to all the orange and black ones I’ve bought on Aliexpress in the past, most of which have made a noticeably louder clicking sound than the ALPS ones.

Sadly, the controller I received today doesn’t seem to power on. The seller said it was connected to a faulty charger which caused the battery to burn up. That seems to be a common issue, but I’ve seen it most often on JDM-011 and 020 boards. I’ve had plenty of those with burnt up charge ports and melted plastic from the BD9200 chip on the board failing and overheating, presumably due to the controller getting plugged into the wrong kind of charger. But usually those at least power on. They overheat almost immediately, but they do at least come on briefly, whereas this one isn’t even detected by my computer at all. Maybe if I get some time one day I might mess around with it and see if I can figure out how to fix it.

Regardless of whether I fix this thing or not, I think it’s incredible that from the looks of it Sony has dumped ALPS. If I’m not mistaken, Sony controllers have had ALPS joysticks in them since the original DualShock controllers for the Playstation, which means they’ve been together for 25+ years. If Sony and ALPS have parted ways, then this is like some kind of huge celebrity breakup. It’s tragic, in a way. But exciting, too, particularly for modders and tinkerers, since Favor Union joysticks are usually easier to find and not faked anywhere near as much as ALPS sticks are.

44 thoughts on “No more ALPS joysticks on recent JDM-055 Playstation 4 controllers?

  1. Thanks!
    I was beginning to question why I was paying for web hosting when I hardly ever use it for anything. But on the rare occasions that I come across something strange or interesting like this I feel glad I kept the site up, haha.

  2. good day! @smilecitrues I am planning to replace my DS4-JDM-055 housing but the available ones on the net are only PS4 JDM-001/JDM-011 are they compatible? will my DS4 board fit at all regarding the holes and screws etc. this is my first time replacing casings TIA!

  3. Hi,
    No, unfortunately none of the housing for the older ZCT1U controllers is compatible. You would need to buy replacement housing for a JDM-050 or JDM-055 controller. It looks like there are some parts available on eBay, but it doesn’t seem like there are any full sets available yet.

  4. I’m looking for a jdm 055 motherboard can you recommend to me anywhere I can get one for a good price. Iv seen them for sale but there going for about £35 and a new controller is not far off that

  5. Sorry, other than eBay I’m not really sure where you could get a replacement controller motherboard. I think I see the one you’re talking about on eBay and I agree I wouldn’t pay that much just for the board.

    You could try looking for a ZCT2U controller with cracked or damaged housing on eBay and buy it hoping that the board itself is good. I see a lot of controllers that have been dropped, pried open, chewed up by dogs, etc… that have damaged, unusable housing but often have good motherboards inside. Of course, the problem with that option is you don’t know which board revision is inside until you receive it. I think at least the transparent blue ones though all have JDM-050 or JDM-055 boards inside, like these:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/233286770797

  6. Hey, I got given a water damaged Sunset Orange DS4, it doesn’t hold any charge but I’m still able to use it perfectly fine while it’s (only) plugged into my PS4, I would like to use it wirelessly but I have no idea what’s causing it not to turn on when not plugged in.

    I’m pretty sure the battery has had it and the Bluetooth adapter may of burnt out as well, but I can’t see any sign of of burnt out parts inside. Thank you in advance for any response. 🙂

  7. Hey, I’m sorry but I don’t know how to solve that issue. The only few things I could suggest would be to check the motherboard carefully for any corrosion and clean it off if you find any with isopropyl alcohol. Then try connecting a known working battery and a known good charge port (the entire little daughterboard, not just the port itself). Sometimes those charge ports fail but still look fine visually, so it’s not always obvious when they’re bad.

    If you have another ZCT2U controller you can try temporarily swapping the battery and charge port over. JDM-040 and JDM-050/055 have the connector for the charge port on opposite sides of the motherboard but the ports are still compatible with one another if all you’re doing is a quick test. You’d just have to do the test with the back cover off. If it works then you can just buy a replacement charge port on eBay or Aliexpress, though I’ll just warn you that sometimes the color of the charge LED on those aftermarket ones is different than the originals. It’s often more yellowish-green than orange when charging.

  8. Do you know where I can buy these joysticks? I just replaced the ones on my PS4 controller with some Amazon knock offs. Sadly, the “L3” button can’t be pressed with the stick in the “up” position. It’s incredibly annoying. I’m no electronics pro, but I’ve always been handy and rarely intimidated to fix things on my own. I hate the idea of trashing a controller because a <$10 part no longer functions. Sourcing the Alps brand I’ve found that most distributors are out of stock. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

  9. You can find the orange and black ones from different sellers on Aliexpress. I haven’t bought any in at least a year, so it’s possible they might no longer have the exact same ones, but the joysticks I got from this listing were most similar to the ones in the new JDM-055 controllers:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32886096224.html

    There’s another version of the orange and black variety that’s also pretty widely available that uses a metal shaft for the vertical axis instead of plastic. The center button (i.e. L3 or R3) is also a lot louder than the originals. Personally, I don’t like this type very much.

    There are a lot of fake ALPS joysticks for sale all over, but you can still find originals on Aliexpress. You just have to find some good sellers. I’ve bought from these two sellers for years and they always have original ALPS sticks:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32509033779.html
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32845334787.html

    If you buy from the first listing just be sure to choose “original”, not “OEM”. “OEM” in this context paradoxically means “not original”.

    Regardless of the version you buy they’ll all be at least somewhat miscalibrated when you receive them (i.e. they will “drift” in one direction or another even when you’re not touching it). They all need manual calibration. You have to bend certain parts using needle nose pliers or tweezers so that the stick is perfectly centered when at rest. That’s why I actually would not recommend getting the orange and black ones. They’re definitely high quality sticks and feel just as nice as the ALPS ones do when you’re using them, but due to their design it’s difficult to adjust the pieces that need to be bent in order to get the stick properly calibrated after installing. In the orange ones the piece that you need to bend forwards or backwards to adjust the vertical position of the stick is split into two at the end:
    http://smilecitrus.info/wp-content/uploads/favor-ps4-joystick.jpg
    This makes it really tough to eliminate any upwards or downwards drift. It’s almost impossible to do so on the variety that has a metal part in that spot instead of plastic, since you can’t easily bend the metal part backwards or forwards like you can with plastic.
    In contrast, the original ALPS sticks have just one solid red plastic part that you can more easily adjust until you get it just right:
    http://smilecitrus.info/wp-content/uploads/alps-ps4-joystick.jpg

  10. Regarding the Calibration, I’m having issues with stick drifting with a bunch of ALPS modules I’ve bought. I have a question about exactly what has to be bent. Is it the metal wheel inside the potentiometer that has to be bent? Or the plastic itself? I’m completely stumped and assumed it was all factory defects until I’ve read this post and noticed you mentioned “Manual Calibration”… Totally made me feel like a dunce… So I’ve decided to reach out to you and hopefully you can help me understand what part inside I need to adjust to calibrate it properly… Thanks!!!

  11. Yeah, I’m sorry, I know I wasn’t very clear. I’ve been meaning for a long time to make a guide with photos. It’s hard for me to explain in writing since I don’t really know the proper names for all of the parts.

    Basically for PS4 controllers what I recommend doing is soldering in the new stick, connecting the charge port, and then plugging it into a computer. There’s no need to connect a battery or anything else. Then head to https://html5gamepad.com/

    If the controller isn’t detected by your computer you may have to install DS4Windows.

    If you’re using Windows 10 you can also use Windows Game Controller Tester at the same time. Use the “Classic Interface” though and be sure to click “Always testmode” under the “Etc Option” section.

    At this point my computer screen looks like this:
    http://smilecitrus.info/wp-content/uploads/joystick-test-1024×334.png

    To correct upward or downward drift, bend this part:
    http://smilecitrus.info/wp-content/uploads/IMG_7799-Copy-1.jpg
    If it’s drifting upwards, then bend the red thing downwards and vice-versa if it’s drifting downwards. You want the values in HTML5 Gamepad Tester to be anywhere from -0.05 to +0.05 when you’re not touching the stick at all (i.e. no more than 5% away from 0).

    If the stick is drifting left or right, bend these pieces just a bit in the opposite direction of the drift:
    http://smilecitrus.info/wp-content/uploads/IMG_7796a.jpg

    Another method to correct horizontal drift is to bend this piece left or right, but personally I find it a little harder than the previous method:
    http://smilecitrus.info/wp-content/uploads/horizontal-joystick-drift.jpg

    It can be pretty infuriating trying to get all the values to be between -0.05 and +0.05 for both the vertical and horizontal axes of both joysticks, especially when it’s your first time trying to do it. You don’t have to get it perfect though, especially if the games you play have reasonable deadzones. A deadzone is simply the threshold for how far the stick has to be tilted for the game to interpret it as an input. Anything below the deadzone percentage is ignored. I’m pretty sure there aren’t any games that have a deadzone as small as 5%, so a stick that drifts 5% or less should probably work perfectly in every game. I’ve personally never had any noticeable gameplay issues with sticks that have as high as a 10% drift. But I’ve heard complaints online that some games do have a deadzone small enough that 10% drift would cause them to be unplayable, so I always try for no more than 5%.

    All of this is pretty much the same for joysticks on other modern controllers as well, including Xbox One. The colors of the joysticks are different, but you can get them calibrated using basically the same method.

    EDIT: Two things I forgot:

    If a brand new stick is drifting by a really large percentage—say 25% or more—then before bending any parts you might want to try replacing this thing:
    http://smilecitrus.info/wp-content/uploads/joystick01-1024×768.jpg

    Sometimes those can cause issues too, especially if they’re bent out of shape. Often you can just clean and reuse the one from the original stick.

    Lastly, it’s not at all uncommon for brand new sticks to simply be defective or damaged due to shipping or handling. I usually find that around 90% of the ones I buy are fine and can be fixed with just a little bit of bending and patience. But 10% or so drift so badly that no amount of bending can get them into usable shape.

  12. 😱 Wow! what a thorough explanation! Thank you so much! You definitely made my day! I will try the above instructions! Again, I appreciate your reply!!!!

  13. Hello I’m desperately looking for the orange and black analog sticks on the jdm-055 board, can you give me a text if you could help me out where to get it at,Thank you

  14. You can find them on Aliexpress. I usually buy the green and blue ones, but I’ve also bought some of the orange and black ones from the listing below and they seem to be identical to the ones on the JDM-055 boards:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32886096224.html

    There are also a number of other sellers who also have them for sale and they’re probably all totally fine. I just haven’t personally bought the orange and black ones from other sellers so I can’t say for certain whether they’re good or not. But here’s a pretty good price on 50 of the orange and black ones:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32647985040.html
    I haven’t bought from that particular listing before, but I have bought the blue and green ones from the same seller in the past and they’re always original and excellent quality.

  15. Could you sell me a ps4 motherboard with the orange and black analog sticks because I’ve been trying to sauder them onto different boards and I’ve been unsuccessful.

  16. Hey, is there any way you can sell me a ps4 motherboard with the orange and black joysticks? I’ve been trying to solder and found no success

  17. I’m sorry, but I don’t have any to sell. I’ve only ever found a small handful of them “out in the wild” and already sold them all.
    There are a few sellers on eBay who have JDM-055 boards for sale, but it doesn’t look like any of them have the orange and black joysticks. Maybe you could ask this seller if he or she has any?
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/254234661952

    When I replace joysticks I always first add some leaded solder to each solder joint and then remove the old stick using hot air at 380 C. I honestly don’t think I could do it without the hot air station. If you have a good heat gun you could probably use a lower temperature, but I have a lousy, cheap one. Then I just use desolder wick to remove all the old solder and install the new one. You do need to use a really high temperature though to suck out all the old lead-free solder. I always set my iron to 380 C for PS4 controller boards and have never lifted a pad, so it’s safe to use temperatures higher than you’d use on other devices.

  18. Hello this is James again i went on eBay and haven’t had any luck finding the orange and black analog sticks that is shown in your picture, is there a chance that you have a set or even 1 orange and black analog stick that i could buy from you.My son started off in professional esports playing with them in his remote until recently they broke, I would pay top dollar for an orange and black analog stick,Thanks

  19. Hello this is James again i went on eBay and haven’t had any luck finding the orange and black analog sticks that is shown in your picture, is there a chance that you have a set or even 1 orange and black analog stick that i could buy from you.My son started off in professional esports playing with them in his remote until recently they broke, I would pay top dollar for an orange and black analog stick,Thanks

  20. Hi,
    I do have some of the orange and black analog sticks. I just don’t have an entire motherboard. I’d be happy to sell you an analog stick on its own.

    As with the green ALPS sticks though, you’ll probably need to calibrate them by hand by bending some parts with pliers or tweezers after you’ve installed the new stick. Otherwise it may drift in one direction or another. I have some instructions here:
    http://smilecitrus.info/?p=3273&cpage=1#comment-11841

    I’ll send you an email in a minute.
    Thanks.

  21. Hi, I’m making a homemade scuff just wondering where are the x and o buttons on a jdm-055 motherboard so I can solder it, cheers

  22. Yes, newer DS4 comes with yellow analogs. reason is simple as hell – DS4 now is making money for sony and must be cheap and faulty, forcing you to change it every 3 months. oldest alps analogs worked almost perfectly for years, maybe even 5. at some point sony force alps to product even cheaper analogs, which worked for only a month, which seems like technotrolling from alps, and this forced sony to change manufacturer, also giving easiest excuse – “our new contract supplyer fault, not ours”. people go buy new ds4, sony counts money. ds3 had magnet analogs, indestructible by design, which stopped users from buying new controller. ds4 is overpriced compared to ds3, and already had design faults – remember black rubber sticks melting like icecream in a oven? there are plenty of countries where sony doesnt change it under warranty. moneeeeeeeeey
    p.s. yellow analogs are okay. when its not centered its not a drift, u dont need to manually “calibrate” it with hammer. console has algorithms to set this as zero. drifting and common troubles caused by it (selfmoving or rotating cam) are caused of stick position jumping , not staying in 1 point.

  23. I totally agree. The older Alps sticks were so much more durable. The sensors wouldn’t get full of dirt so easily, so they lasted forever. I’m always amazed when I open up an old PS2 or Xbox 360 controller and the analog stick sensors are pristine. No dirt or gunk at all. They almost always still work fine, even if the controller itself is filthy.

    Issues like selfmoving or rotating camera are caused by the stick position jumping around, as you said. Usually that’s due to the conductive ink being worn off the sensors on the left and the top of the stick. It’s true that you can’t fix this by any type of “calibration”. If the ink isn’t totally rubbed away, then you can temporarily fix it by cleaning the sensors and even spraying something like Deoxit D5 in there. But they’ll still eventually need to be replaced.

    Bending with pliers is necessary though when you buy a brand new stick from Aliexpress or somewhere like that. The console does have a deadzone and will set inputs less than, say, 10% as zero, but sometimes after you install a brand new stick and check in HTML5 Gamepad Tester you’ll see that it’s showing something like 25% input in one direction or another. 25% is more than the deadzone in some games, so it actually will cause selfmoving or rotating camera. That’s when you can fix it by bending with pliers 🙂

  24. Heilo,
    I’ve been nodding co trollers for about a year now and this is the first time I ca.e acrossed these modules in a sony. I’ve seen them online and in fake sony controllers. My question is, are they any good?

  25. Yep, they’re actually really nice. In my opinion they feel a little bit smoother to rotate than the ALPS ones. But I suggest only using them in JDM-055 controllers. If you use them on the older board revisions you’ll probably need to adjust the vertical position quite a bit.

  26. Thanks for all this info – after searching for on how to repair my PS4 controller
    this is the most complete and detailed info on the internet

  27. Is it possible to buy just the potentiometers anywhere? I replace sticks for a local game shop and I replaced 50 or so sticks (ps4 & xbox one) without issue but lately all the sticks I’ve bought have been knockoffs or just really poor quality. I’ve resorted to cannibalizing other controllers for the pots. One good board can fix 4 drifting sticks that way but if I could just buy the pots themselves it’d save a lot of effort.

    Additional question. Do you know what the Alps part number is? I work in purchasing for an electronics manufacturer and if I had that p/n I could buy the sticks from distributors and not risk getting fakes.

  28. There are some listings on Aliexpress for just the pots, but it looks to me like a lot of them are the counterfeit type. If you search for “axis resistors” you’ll find a bunch of listings. Judging from the pictures most of those listings seem to be for the same axis resistors used in those fake ALPS sticks that are all over eBay and Amazon. I’ve bought them by mistake before. Even if you attach them to a genuine ALPS stick, they don’t really work correctly. The sensitivity is nowhere near as good as the originals, so even if they’re usable for some games, you don’t end up with something that you can really give back to a customer or sell as a functional controller.

    Based on the user reviews though it looks like these ones from E-house Wholesale might be original: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32844729647.html
    I haven’t ordered them myself though, so I can’t say for sure. I’m just judging by the pictures in the user review section.

    Personally I buy ALPS sticks from Movsemi01on Aliexpress. The ones they sell are all original. About 95% are usually good. A few may arrived cracked or damaged. But the majority are perfect. There are other good sellers on Aliexpress too that probably have originals, like Gamers Zone Store, ViViGAME Store, and E-House Wholesale Store. So you can look around and try to find the lowest price. I do also save the horizontal axis resistors from irreparable boards and reuse them to fix others, since the horizontal axis ones aren’t usually as worn out or damaged as the vertical axis ones.

    The closest I have for a part number for the ALPS sticks is RKJXV1224005. When I first started repairing PS4 and XBone controller I ordered a small quantity of them from Mouser to be sure I was getting genuine parts. They’re definitely genuine, but the problem is that they’re not actually the exact same part used in PS4 or Xbox One controllers. RKJXV1224005 has black axis resistors and has some protruding plastic bits on the underside that prevent it from sitting flush on top of the PCB. If you file away the protruding plastic bits they work fine on both PS4 and Xbox One controllers. But it’s a pain in the neck having to do that. Plus buying from Mouser is much more expensive than buying on Aliexpress. So I wouldn’t recommend buying them.

    One the other hand, the orange and black sticks in the newer JDM-055 are Favor Union FJR10K series.

  29. I have 2 JDM 055 motherboards that won’t power up and no charge getting to the battery. It gets power to the motherboard via the tapes but not to the battery. What could this be

  30. Hey, I’m sorry, but I don’t really have much experience actually fixing JDM-055 boards. I’ve come across a lot of them with the exact same issue you’re describing, but I don’t know how to fix them.

    My guess is that it’s the power management IC S2P6001A. It looks like maybe you can buy replacements here: https://www.1688.com/huo/detail-621790827422.html

    But I don’t for sure if that chip is even the issue or not. I once tried swapping one over from a water-damaged JDM-055 board onto a JDM-055 board that powered on but wouldn’t charge. But the replacement didn’t solve the problem. I don’t know if it’s because the chip I swapped over was bad too, if it was maybe due to poor soldering on my part, or if maybe the original issue was something else entirely.

    Sorry I’m not of much help. If you do figure it out though please let me know. I’m curious about this issue too. It seems really common. I’ve come across lots of controllers with JDM-055 boards that are in nice, clean condition with no signs of water damage that are just totally dead. Or they power on but don’t charge. That’s why I speculate that maybe it’s electrical damage to that chip from connecting the controller to fast chargers meant for cell phones or something like that.

  31. Hi how do I contact you regarding a price for two PS4 controller repairs. Both need new left analog replacement and calibration.

  32. Hi, I’m seeking some advice.

    I attempted to repair my second PS4 controller (model CUH-ZCT2U), the internals: JDM-055 PCB and ALPS analog sticks. I got tired of opening the casing and cleaning the “disc” thingies to fix the drifting and decided to replace these analog sticks. For replacement I used these analog sticks that I already had from before: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32824299702.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.23234c4dEoyCoo

    However after “fixing” the controller is not powering on.
    Also plugging it via USB cable does nothing, it doesn’t charge.
    The battery is ok, I tested in another gamepad.
    What are the chances that I screwed something? 🙁
    I took care during the process and nothing looks damaged.

    Or could it be that the analog sticks are just not compatible?
    I already used the same analogs on another gamepad but its a different model with JDM-011 PCB and worked just fine, just the calibration is a bit off, but nothing too anoying.

    Thank you

  33. Hi,
    Those are good sticks. They’re definitely compatible. I’ve bought from that seller before and haven’t had any issues with them. I don’t think the sticks themselves would be the problem.

    I don’t know for sure what would cause it not to power on. I’d suggest just checking to make sure the board is nice and clean. There have been a number of occasions when I replaced a joystick on a controller and then plugged it in to test only to find that it wouldn’t power on. Then after looking closely I would find some tiny little flake of solder had ended up falling onto the board and was touching some component that it shouldn’t be. Even if it looks clean, it wouldn’t hurt to quickly brush off the board with a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol just to be sure.

    I know this is probably obvious, but also make sure you didn’t accidentally plug the flex cable for the charge port in backwards. I’ve made that mistake myself numerous times, especially if I’m working on an older controller and then switch to working on a newer one with the connector on the opposite side of the board. Sometimes I even get controllers described as “broken” that simply have the cable plugged in backwards.

    Also, if the touch pad isn’t correctly connected the board might not power on. This is only an issue if you have one of the touch pads with a white flex cable coming out of it with a blue piece at the end. That type has a cable that’s removable on the inside. The touch pads with the orange and black flex cables don’t have this issue though. But if you have the type with the white and blue flex cable then make sure it’s properly connected inside the touch pad itself. These can sometimes come loose inside the touch pad when you disassemble and reassemble the controller. You can pry open the touch pad using a flat tool. Just insert it from the bottom of the touch pad and exert some upward pressure and it should pop open without too much trouble. I use one of these cheap nylon spudgers to make sure I don’t scratch or damage it. Once you’re inside just try removing and reseating the cable. There’s usually a piece of sticky tape there to help hold the cable in place, so you need to be a bit careful when removing it.

  34. I have one of those touch pads with white flex cable and blue end that you mentioned. I opened the touch pad and the cable was a bit loose and made sure to plug it back in. Unfortunately this didn’t do the trick. The gamepad still doesn’t power on.

    Anoter issue has arisen as while brushing the board with isopropyl alcohol I accidentaly damaged one of the circuit pads for the ground wire of one vibration motor, the pad peeled off. 🙁

    I must have damaged the board before with too much heat or elecrostactic discharge (?) maybe. :((

    Thanks for your advices.

  35. Hi, I’m trying to fix a JDM-055 controller that took a dive into the toilet.

    The controller works connect to USB but not from the battery. I’ve replaced the battery which as totally dead with a working one but the problem persisted.

    My next guess is the S2P6001A. The link you provided above is broken, any idea where I can find the part?

  36. Sadly I can’t really help you too much on this one, since I’ve never actually fixed this issue myself. I’ve received lots of JDM-055 boards with similar problems, but other than cleaning the board and replacing the battery and charge port I really don’t know what else can be done to repair these.

    It looks like the listing on 1688.com is gone, but I did find a thread on acidmods.com from last year where someone found this similar IC for sale on Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001024779222.html

    The chip is really expensive at $18, but someone in the thread whose controller had the same problem as yours said that when they swapped that chip over from another controller it did fix the problem. For what it’s worth, I only tried this once and it didn’t solve my problem. But the donor chip came from another broken board, so it’s possible it was also bad.

    Best of luck to you.

  37. Glad I found your site. The link to the gamepad tester website helped to fix my ps4 controller (Vendor: 054c Product: 09cc). My controllers left analog stick would not register moving forward or forward diagonally. When it did register, the movement was really jerky in any type of forward direction. A lot of websites and youtube videos point to cleaning the green caps and replacing the white sensor that have springs. In my case, the left green cap had some coating missing on the black circles.

    I ordered a pack of analog modules from Tomsin on Amazon and received modules made by ALPS. To me, they look identical to the old analog module. The onlu difference was the 3 numbers written on the side next to the ALPS name, which might be a batch or version number. I just replaced the left green cap. This was mostly because the solder was difficult to remove with my old radio shack iron. Overall, my controller works perfectly now.

  38. Awesome, I’m glad you got it fixed. Cleaning inside those green parts will work in the short term, but usually if the analog stick movement becomes jerky enough to start interfering with gameplay it’s because that black conductive coating has actually started to wear away. Once that happens all you can really do is replace the part.
    I think you’re right about the numbers on the side of the module. They’re probably something like a batch number. They differ from one controller to the next, so as long as the parts you ordered look and feel genuine they probably are. The counterfeit ones look similar to the genuine ones in photos, but they’re pretty obviously fake when you see and touch them in person. So yours are probably legit, especially considering the parts actually worked 🙂

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *